Friday, October 21, 2011

Krakow Trip #2...and a visit to Auschwitz


Mark needed to travel to Krakow for an all day meeting so...I tagged along too. We left Wed. night arriving to a cold Krakow...much different then when we were there 6 weeks ago.
Here is my favorite traveling companion...actually my only traveling companion! Mark had hoped to get on a train car with seats similar to an airline...and lucky us...we did! The ride was 3 hours and mostly in the dark as it gets dark here about 5:30pm... the journey by train was really quite relaxing.
While Mark was in meetings all day...I decided to take a tour and travel by bus to the town of Oswiecim (German equivalent...Auschwitz..and about 90 min. from Krakow) to see the concentrations camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau.
Above is the entry gate into the camp at Auschwitz...the words say "Work makes you free".
The camp has been preserved as a memorial and the blocks that we were able to see and go into are like a museum showing what happened here, what the people experienced and what was happening in a part of Poland during the early 1940's.
I took just a few pictures...mostly I listened to our excellent tour guide (a Polish young adult) share about the history and the people who came here who did not have a voice.

People were deported to the camps for many reasons...here is a picture of women and children in 1944....they were told they were going to be relocated but that did not occur.
On display are a number of areas showing personal items families brought with them when they were told they would be relocated. These items were collected and piled up. Here is a huge pile of kitchen and cooking equipment.
There are over 40,000 pairs of shoes here...and these are only a small fraction of the shoes collected.

Upon arrival men and women were immediately separated from each other...the first of many dehumanizing events.
Even though Auschwitz was itself a prison, there was a prison inside the camp. Internees were sent there for minor infractions such as not working fast enough or smoking. This is known as "the wall of death"...where prisoners were tortured and killed.
This is the area where all prisoners came after a full day of work for roll call. This would often be the hardest part of the day, especially during the winter because they often had to stand for long periods before the guards finished.
The worst times were when someone was discovered missing because they had escaped, or attempted to do so. On those occasions, 10 prisoners were randomly selected to be executed as punishment for the escape attempt.
The guards stayed in these small booths during the roll call so they were protected from the cold - unlike the prisoners who had no protection.
The barbed wire fences surround the compound...I was in a touring group (about 20 people)...since I had no friend or family with me...I had much time for reflection and learning.
After 2 hours at Auschwitz, we traveled 3K (about 2 miles) to the largest concentration camp... at Birkenau.
Here is a train car that would hold well over 50 people in each car. People were deported here, got off the train and then pass by inspectors and within 15-20 seconds a decision was made if they would labor here or not. This camp eventually became the largest extermination camp.
There are plaques in many languages similar to this one in English....
Ruins of one of the gas chambers and crematoriums...most were destroyed by Nazis.
Inside one of the women's blocks...sleeping quarters for camp members.

This was a very somber field trip/excursion, but I am grateful for the time I had to visit and learn about the place I have only read about. I left feeling very humbled and had a greater understanding and respect for this part of Poland's tragic history.
After returning...I walked up to Old Town and happened upon a very small Polish pottery shop. I wanted to end my day thinking of something cheerful....so I purchased a few very simple but beautiful pieces of pottery...reminding me of the great beauty there is to be found in this country!

We stayed at the Sheraton Inn...and had a short but lovely stay in this hotel situated across from the Vistula River and the Wawel Castle.
I loved traveling with Mark, learning and experiencing places I had only read about before.
We returned home Friday morning and Mark went straight to work. I attended a Polish cooking class (helped to make pierogis) and while walking back to Mark's office .... I saw blue sky and the familiar Cultural Palace...I knew I was home!
Our fall days are quite crisp...but the falling leaves, changing colors and golden trees are quite beautiful! We continue to dress in layers but try to appreciate the beauty that surrounds us and try not to think how really cold it is, and how much colder it is going to be!

Sunday, October 16, 2011

We traveled to...Torun, Poland


Torun's claim to fame is it is the birthplace of the astronomer Nicholas Copernicus...and also it is known as the "gingerbread capital of the world".
We took a very crowded train ride to Torun, Poland...about 3 hours northwest of Warsaw on Friday evening. We checked into our hotel and walked 5-10 min. away into their Old Town. It was a brisk evening...but we got an idea of what we wanted to do on Saturday. In addition we ate dinner at a small little restaurant....and had some amazing soup at 9:30pm.
Saturday morning we began exploring Torun...We came upon "The Leaning Tower"...it used to be part of the city wall, a prison, and later a home. The ground shifted and thus the leaning tower.
When you try and stand against it with you back feet against the wall you automatically fall forward. Also...when you stand and your head touches the wall your feet can not be against it.
We found one of the many "gingerbread shops" that sell a variety of different types of gingerbread treats...we found some we like and enjoyed the sweet smell inside the shops!
We next found one of the Gingerbread Factories in the city. Torun is known for its gingerbread...and we found a place where you can learn how it is made.
We listened and then got to create some decorative gingerbread pieces.
Mark is rolling out the gingerbread dough and getting ready to select his cookie cutter shape. Mark and my cookies are on the bottom row, far left side. They were to bake for about 10 minutes or to the equivalent of saying "50 Hail Marys"...according to medieval legend. Torun's gingerbread "pierniki" is a Polish gingerbread that has been made since the Middle Ages...key ingredients: honey, wheat flour, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and....black pepper!
These gingerbread cookies are decorative and not for eating. Unfortunately some one else picked up the cookie I created...but here is one similar. It was a fun activity and glad to see how it is created. We soon found numerous shops that sold a variety of gingerbread creations to eat...they were yummy treats!
Torun is one of the most beautiful and older cities in Poland ...we came to see the old, but also found the new...as in this McDonald's Cafe.
Just around the corner is one of the many very old buildings...this is "The Star"residence. Once a home in the mid 1400s...now it is home to art and museum collections.
The cobblestone streets are everywhere...once in a while we could find some modern ones where walking was a bit easier. The streets are beautiful though and adds to the charm of the area.
Next to the Vistula River are a number of walls and gates to the city. We soon found the area of the ruins to the Teutonic Knights Castle.
We saw the grounds of the Teutonic Knights ' Castle established after 1236...the
castle was the headquarters of a Commander and one of the most important convents for the Teutonic Knights.
Can you believe these ruins are close to over 800 years old?
The castle was built in the 13th c. but was destroyed in 1454 when the people of Torun rose up in rebellion against the knights.
We found this fountain and statue..."Rafter's Fountain"...legend says that once there was an over abundance of frogs in Torun... a rafter played his fiddle and frogs soon left the area. The citizens were most appreciative... We had seen a number of "frogs" in the area...statues, souvenirs, and pictures. I wondered if there was some significance to "frogs" in Torun...we found our answer.
Torun is the birthplace of the scientist/astronomer Nicolas Copernicus...and his statue is right in the middle of the Old Town...next to the Town Hall.
We decided to go to the top of the Town Hall tower...above you can see the area we climbed to...right above the clock tower.
We began our climb...the first of "175 steps" to the top. Today (though I've climbed stairs daily for 4 months) my legs are feeling the affects from this climb. I told Mark if I ever express the desire to climb to the top of something to look at the view...please remind me of my "whining"...!
But...we soon saw that the climb was worth every step and effort as the view was so beautiful in any direction we looked.

This is the Church of the Holy Ghost...built in the 18th century.

Mark begins the climb down...at times the steps were quite steep...and going down was much easier than climbing up.
We toured the birthplace of Nicolas Copernicus....housed inside are many artifacts from this time period and many original pieces over 500 years old!



While leaving the town we came to this little brick wall with small medieval characters posted around it...charming for this little town. I'm munching on a chocolate covered gingerbread heart...Yum!
Here we are waiting at the train station...it took the taxi less than 10 minutes to get us to the train station so we had plenty of time just to wait before leaving to come home to Warsaw.
Mark even got a "great nap" before we boarded our train...the ride home was smooth and quiet...and much less crowded than on Friday night.
We enjoyed our almost 24 hour stay in this very old city...it has charm and a great history and we were so glad to we could enjoy, learn and spend the day in Torun, Poland!